Fashion History

Airline BBC 2 Drama Series Pan Am as a Sixties Fashion Indulgence

394 Pan AmHave you been watching Pan Am? It’s a period drama on BBC 2 about the pilots and flight attendants who once made up the Pan Am (Pan American World Airways) crew. Following in the footsteps of Mad Men in regards to fashion influence, Pan Am is helping to revive our love of all things 60s and vintage.


The work that went into developing costumes for the show is fascinating. It took one month to make just one Pan Am air hostess costume for the show. Ane Crabtree, the costume designer behind the new series, wanted a very specific colour for the girls’ uniforms – a gorgeous bright blue which looks as deep as the ocean. Twenty different craftsmen were needed to create the costumes, with the hats made by a milliner in Los Angeles.


Starring Christina Ricci and Margot Robbie, the show is filmed in the same studios as twenties drama Boardwalk Empire. To keep up with demand, around half of the costumes are made especially for the show and half are brought in from costume houses. One episode required 400 extras to be dressed, and with many of the costumes being authentically made using 60s sewing techniques, sourcing from elsewhere was inevitable.


The vintage trend shows no sign of disappearing anytime soon, whether you prefer to source authentic pieces or get copy-cats from the High Street, there are plenty of options. “I like seeing the immediacy of what happens on TV and how people on the streets are eating it up," says Crabtree in The Telegraph. "You are seeing men in slim suits now. Women are wearing long pencil skirts. I get e-mails asking where the best places are to buy gloves. Men are starting to wear hats. Simple sheath dresses are back in vogue. People are really excited by this trend." 

My-Wardrobe to Hold Exclusive Auction of Vintage Inspired Courrèges Frocks

Online designer retailer My-Wardrobe is all set to hold an exclusive auction of Courrèges clothing. Courrèges is the luxury French fashion house which was famous for its modern designs (for the time). Andre Courrèges opened his first Maison de Couture in 1961 after originally training to be a civil engineer. He worked with Balenciaga in the late 50s and is well known for popularising the mini skirt, along with Mary Quant.


Somehow Courrèges , My-Wardrobe and erm, Evian, have all become entwined on this project.  The auction is to celebrate Evian’s three new designer water bottles. Three authentic Courrèges designs will be reproduced and sold to the highest bidder in the auction, which is sure to attract Courrèges  fans. 25% of the proceeds from the auction will be donated to Breakthrough Breast Cancer.


There will also be two MY-TV fashion films, shot at Courrèges in Paris and featuring interviews with the brand's CEO and head designer. I wouldn’t blame you for not having heard of Courrèges. The fifty year old label has been very much under the contemporary fashion radar. However, the label has recently been brought by new owners and the collaboration with My-Wardrobe is obviously a tactic to get their name out there.


A new ecommerce site is set to launch in the next couple of weeks and will stock updated classics from its 1960s heyday.  If they follow in the footsteps of Biba and Mary Quant there is strong hope for this ailing brand.  Currently only available via a flagship store in Paris and Jeffrey in New York, the brand is marking its 50th anniversary with a limited edition, 50-piece release of its signature vinyl jacket in Paris concept store Colette later this month. Apparently Victoria Beckham is a great fan of Courrèges, and that has to help.


The auction will run from the 21st to 28th of October at www.my-wardrobe.com/evian

Ones to Watch in Ethical Design: Ethical Fashion Forum Innovation Award Winners 2011

200 Chichia Dress

The Ethical Fashion Forum is a not-for-profit network promoting and supporting sustainable and ethical fashion businesses. They have just announced the winners of their Innovation Awards 2001 which recognise the best and most innovative enterprises in the ethical fashion industry.  Here are the winners’ stories.

Chichia

Chichia was a winner of the PURE award, and will be given the opportunity to showcase at trade show PURE this weekend.  Womenswear brand Chichia London was founded by Christine Mhando in 2007, drawing on her Tanzanian roots to formulate the label’s aesthetic. Mhando studied at the London College of Fashion and Kent University, as well as working for various manufacturers before starting her own label. In collaboration with concept jersey label Made by Africa, Chichia refreshes everyday basics with a Tanzanian twist, incorporating East-African organic cottons into their collections. The collections are manufactured in a Fairtrade certified factory in Tanzania.

Eko

Eko was the second PURE award winner.  EKO is an ethical Cornish clothing label, using new eco fibres such as bamboo and soyabean to create casual basics in the kindest of fabrics founded on the promise of ethical clothing which reflects the laid back quality of the Cornish coast. That said, production takes place in Portugal and Turkey. Muted colours are inspired by the work of artist Barbara Hepworth.  

Caipora

The Five Faces of Burberry, British Designer Fashion at its Best

194 Burberry Prorsum

Burberry is really at the top of its game of late. This time last year, one of last winter’s most covetable pieces, the Burberry Aviator jacket, had already sold out on net-a-porter, despite its £1,895 price tag.  Not bad for a brand that is more than 150 years old. The jacket sparked a wealth of copy cat styles on the High Street and signalled that Burberry had returned to the forefront of British fashion.

After building up a strong reputation for quality trench coats and the Burberry signature check tartan, the brand had a wobble in the 90s when chav culture became linked to the iconic look.  Recent years have seen a push to erase this association, rebranding itself with advertising campaigns in Vogue and Tatler using famous faces such as Kate Moss and Emma Watson.  With CEO Angela Ahrendts and creative director Christopher Bailey at the helm, the company is booming, and with Burberry there is something for everyone.  So can you name the five faces of Burberry?

Burberry Prorsum covers the show stopping looks which come down the catwalk each season. The most expensive of the sub brands, this is for the celebs and wealthy fashionistas. They use of lot of rabbit fur, which depending on your disposition could be a plus or minus point, but the signature look of this season is the colour block coat.  This tangerine one is collarless, panelled and 100% wool, costing £1495.  Of course, you can get the look from the High Street and add a touch of sunshine to winter days wherever you go.

Iconic Brand: Mulberry

Mulberry has just celebrated its 40th birthday.  Ok, so it’s not the oldest fashion brand out there, but middle age is quite a turning point, and Mulberry is definitely ‘iconic’. Mulberry was founded in Somerset in 1971 and has kept production based there ever since (Brownie points for British manufacturing).  Mulberry has been celebrating their birthday all year, and at the start of May they launched a 40th birthday book.  Taking nearly three years to put together and including 480 glossy pages, the book contains a selection of never-before-seen photography from the brand’s archives. The images include photoshoots, behind-the-scenes pics and celeb photos.  The book, which was directed by Mulberry Brand Director Georgia Fendley, has been highly acclaimed by the fashion world. At the launch, held at the New Bond Street store, guests could even decorate their own cakes, the perfect party entertainment!

91 Mini Alexa

Mulberry has always been known for its classic leather accessories.  The original ‘must haves’ were the leather agenda and poacher bags.  Following these, the Bayswater, Roxanne and Alexa were instant fashion classics.  The Alexa, of course was inspired by modern fashion icon Alexa Chung.  What an honour! The Alexa was a perfect representation of Chung herself, effortlessly stylish.  The woman behind the Alexa is Brit designer Emma Hill who joined the brand in 2008, debuting with the spring/summer 09 collection.  She has helped to steer the brand from British heritage, to the forefront of high end fashion.  Mulberry does classic English dressing at its best; the r-t-w collection for this summer includes classic camel trench coats, simple chic shirt dresses and satin evening wear.

Iconic Brand: Chanel

 

Conquer up an image of the most famous luxury design houses, and French talent Chanel is probably right up there.  Started by Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, the fashion house has lasted long after her death and has barely faltered in being at the forefront of high fashion.  Coco Chanel found her feet during World War 1 when she opened a shop in Deauville, France, adapting sailor’s jackets and men’s jumpers for women’s wear (so Junky Styling didn’t come up with the idea first?!).  After the war she found success with her jersey wool dresses, classic evening gowns and those wool suits that make Chanel so iconic.  Her clothing was relaxed and comfortable, freeing women from the old corseted silhouette.

76 Coco Chanel

The designer (born in 1883) was a perfectionist.  She had strong views on how women should dress and she favoured simple but elegant designs.  You can thank Chanel for introducing the sweater line, pleated skirt and triangular scarf.  By 1935, she was using so much wool jersey in her garments that she opened her own jersey factory. ‘What about those lustful quilted bags?’ - I hear you say.  She introduced the Chanel gold or metallic chain-strapped and quilted leather handbags in February 1955. The launch date for this line, 2.55, thus became the name that the bag was known by and still is to this day. 

Coco Chanel retired in 1939 to 1954, but then came back to the brand, working until her death in 1971.  After a few shaky years, Karl Lagerfeld took over as chief designer in 1983.  He brought sex appeal back to Chanel without losing Coco’s signature aesthetic.  Millions of people feel like the ‘Chanel woman’ with their Chanel No.5 perfume. Chanel is for the working woman, the glamour puss, the mother and the fashion follower, everyone wants to own a bit of Chanel.

Style Icon of the day : TWIGGY

Born Lesley Hornby, you’ve probably seen Twiggy recently as a guest judge in America’s Next Top Model, season 5 to 9 hosted by Tyra Banks (she’s the nicest of the bunch, in my humble opinion – contestants included…). But her career has been spanning over 5 decades and it’s still not slowing down, as she has recently signed a deal for books for a rumoured 1.5 million Pounds !! She’s also one of the faces of Marks & Spencer, sings, and has appeared in countless TV shows, films and stage productions. She retired from modeling in 1970, stating “you can’t be a coat hanger all your life” (!)


54 The Face of 1966


Now for her style, you HAVE to know this picture. It was published in the Daily Express in 1966 and made her famous worldwide. Her hairstyle and androgynous look has been copied many times. Think Carey Mulligan, Michelle Williams or recently Emma Watson who cut her hair to leave the Harry Potter saga behind her.


Twiggy also modeled some famous looks of the late 60s that are coming back on trend now :


White military coat ? Check


56 60s miltary chic


Shift floaty dress and block colour shoes ? Check


61


Floral blouse and leather driving gloves ? Check


59


Mini skirts and geometric dresses ? Check


62

Style Icon of the day : LOUISE BROOKS

You probably haven’t seen any of her movies, unless you’re a silent movie fan, and you might not know her name either, but her style has influenced many celebrities and trends.


She was born in 1906 in Kansas, and after a wild childhood, and sexual abuse at the age of 9, she was determined to get fame and started her career as a modern dancer. She started to work in Hollywood in 1925, had a short affair with Charlie Chaplin while he was promoting The Gold Rush, and went on to be the most famous female silent film star of her generation. She's famous for her role as Lulu in Pandora’s Box  (It's also the title of her autobiography)


48 The Brooks


Have you seen Singing in the rain ? A big part of the plot is inspired by Brooks life : the relationship between Debbie Reynolds and Gene Kelly (mirroring Brooks/Chaplin), the fantasy dance by Cyd Charisse, styled like Brooks, and the plot where the voice of the main actress is doubled, which reminds of a similar situation for The Canary Murder Case when Brooks voice was doubled by Margaret Livingston…


As for her style, where to begin ?


- Her legendary Bob haircut is so iconic that many hairdressers refer to it as The Brooks. You’ve seen it on Dannii Minogue, or Katie Holmes…


- The bow blouse and hotpants : Kylie Minogue didn’t invent them, but they were quite shocking in the 20s


49 Louise Brooks


- Ballerina Tutu dress : very Black Swan, only 90 years ahead…


51 Black ballerina


- Flapper dress, oversized coat and Cloche hat, copied by many including Kate Moss


53

Style icon of the day : AUDREY HEPBURN

Let's not make this a tribute to her acting career (even if yes, admittedly, she's ALSO a great actress... Some people have it all), but Audrey Hepburn has become one of the most famous style icons in the 20th Century. But why is she still on top of the list when most of today's fashionistas weren't even born when she started making movies ?


First of all, she was the complete opposite of the "standard" beauty of her times. When Hollywood was saturated by curvy glamorous sirens (think Marylin Monroe, Jane Mansfield or Rita Hayworth), Audrey Hepburn arrived like a breath of fresh air, and her first international movie, Roman Holiday, catapulted her into international stardom in instants.


So what exactly is Audrey Hepburn style ?


It's a mix of chic wardrobe basics and stunning pieces, mostly custom made for her by her favorite designer : Hubert de Givenchy (who created her costumes in most of her movies as well). She is remembered for so many classic looks that it's difficult to list them all, but let's try :


- The white shirt she wears in Roman Holiday (really unusual at the time...), and the short neck scarf 


42 Roman Holiday


- THAT black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany's, which is probably the most copied look in the world as well as the long gloves and the beige trench coat


44 Breakfast at Tiffany's


- Full on Glamour in Sabrina, with a white embroidered Ball Gown and black flaired dress


45 Sabrina


- Oversized sunglasses, fitted suits in bold colours and black lace in How To Steal A Million


46 How to steal a million

Top Wedding Dresses

 

The Royal Wedding has kicked off the wedding season and with more celeb weddings happening this year, there will be plenty of dresses to scrutinise, from the beautiful, to flamboyant to just plain silly.  But what celebrity dresses from the past stick best in your mind?  A poll by Debenhams has listed the top 10 best and worst celeb wedding gowns of all time and the crown for best dress goes to Jackie Onassis (first lady, Jackie O) when she married Kennedy in 1953.  You don’t have to be 60 plus to remember the dress; the gown designed by Ann Lowe is now housed in the Kennedy Library, Massachusetts. With cap sleeves, a tiny waist and full skirt, the gown with beautifully pleated fabric is stunningly elegant but in a not-overdone way.

34 Rachel Gibbert gown, £1173 net-a-porter

The top five acts as a roll call of history’s most stylish women.  After Jackie O; Grace Kelly, Priscilla Presley, Bianca Jagger and Audrey Hepburn were all selected for their stunning wedding gowns.  Ed Watson, Spokesperson for Debenhams said, “When it comes to British taste, it’s a case of something old over something new - half of the top 10 best dresses were worn over six decades ago.  Clearly the more recent styles like Jordan’s pink meringue and Jodie Marsh’s red dress push the boundaries too far – further demonstrating the British love affair with tradition.”

 

Dress for Excess

 

If you are a fan of historical fashion and opulent design, make a bee-line for Brighton this summer.  The Brighton Royal Pavilion is showcasing the exhibition ‘Dress for Excess: Fashion in Regency England’.   It celebrates the 200th anniversary of the Regency Act by looking at the extravagant life of George IV.  George IV was the son of George III and King of England from 1820 to 1830.  He liked to live the high life and commissioned John Nash to build the Royal Pavilion and remodel Buckingham Palace.  The Royal Pavilion sits in the heart of Brighton, surrounded by green park space; it looks like a proper palace from the east with an exotic oriental appearance both inside and out.

Martin Pel, Curator of Fashion and Textiles at the Royal Pavilion and Museums, said: "More than any other monarch, George knew the power of dress. Whether it was the dandy fashions of his youth or the military uniforms he wore as an adult, as he sought a role for himself while waiting nearly 60 years to be crowned king. His love of fashion was not merely an expensive indulgence, but a significant part in creating who George was." 

28 Martin in Music Room Copyright Jim Holden

History of the Waist

 

13 Gucci S/S '11

 Where does our obsession with the female waistline come from? Mad Men, the hit drama show set in the 1960s New York, epitomises the look with tiny waists, full hips and prom dresses, but our love of the waist isn’t new.  Of course the secret to a tiny waist was, for many years, the corset.  The corset is the most controversial garment in the entire history of fashion.  Corsets, in the form we know them, originated in the aristocratic courts some 400 years ago before spreading their popularity across society.  However, some historians argue that they actually originated in ancient Minoan Crete, where wall paintings and statues uncovered depict females wearing tight bodices.  In more recent history, plenty of artists such as Jean-Francois Detroy and John Collet have documented women in corsets for our reference.  This season you can celebrate your own waist with the body con trend.

The popularity of corsets from the late renaissance to 20th Century was big business.  A slender waist was perceived as a trait of great beauty, a trait which women strived for often in disregard to their health and comfort.  It was believed that a corset was needed to keep a woman’s shape and posture correct.  At a time when control over one’s body was regarded highly important, lessons were given to those in the elite in how to stand correctly, dance elegantly, and even hold a fan.

Denim has been around for quite a while - around 400 years - but it took several centuries before clothes made from this traditionally-indigo colored tough and hardy fabric became popular among the general public. As with so many other things, Hollywood had to show the way before the masses followed.

The Renaissance: 17th Century Nimes, England and Genoa

The sturdy, washable material today known as denim first made its appearance in the south of France during the early 1600s when the city of Nimes manufactured the cotton-based "Serge de Nimes" (fabric of Nimes). When this twill fabric crossed the channel - possibly while being worn by French sailors - its name was anglicized, and the word "denim" entered the English language.

Sailors all over Europe soon adopted denim as the basic material for their uniforms - it could be worn while wet or dry and denim uniforms could be washed in seawater by simply dragging them behind a ship - but it was the Genoese sailors who forever put their mark on international fashion when their denim pants became known as "jeans". All denim fabric was also treated with an indigo-colored dye, which caused the material to develop its traditional dark blue hue, and white threads were interwoven with indigo threads in such as way that the indigo always colored the outside and the white, the inside.

The 18th Century: To The New World

Denim continued to be the staple material of all things navy - possibly even ships' sails - and this hardy fabric soon found itself on the shores of The New World, where it became extremely popular among cotton plantation owners as it represented a cheap, easy and long-lasting way to clothe their slaves.

People have been in the habit of putting their best-shod foot forward for quite a while, but shoe styles have changed dramatically over the past 40,000 years or so.

The Dawn of Time: 38000BC (give or take)

Shoes - and, no doubt, shoe fanatics - have been around a lot longer than people think, and recent archeological discoveries indicate that the first rudimentary pair of shoes may have been manufactured approximately 40,000 years ago. Scientists have speculated that the apparent weakness in the fossilized toe bones recently unearthed in China suggests that people were wearing primitive strap-sandals as far back as forty centuries ago, and they have also speculated that it was not long before these simple sandals - most probably first used to protect the foot - were transformed into something more decorative than functional. Such early sandals were made of materials like plant fibers and bearskin, but it was not long - relatively speaking - before other materials were introduced.

Long, Long Ago: About 2000BC through AD400

This was the age that the sandal came into its own, and footwear developed into something traditionally worn only by the rich and famous. Ancient Egyptian sandals greatly resembled our modern flip-flops but were made from such natural materials as papyrus strands and palm fibers. The open sandal with the pointed and curled-back peaked toe made its appearance around 1245BC - usually on the feet of the pharaohs - and yellow and red colored sandals also began to make their mark around this time.

It took a long, long time for men to progress to an era where jeans and tshirts are acceptable casual wear and only slightly less long for them to arrive at a point where suits are acceptable formal wear. What will be next? The unitard as promised in countless Star Trek movies? A return to New Romantic fashions? Knowing men and their (presently) conservative tastes, however, the future fashions are likely to involve something as mundane as more jeans, tshirts and suits.

The Neanderthal and The Needle: 300,000BC through 1000BC

Neanderthal Man may have been the first to realize that wearing animal furs during cold spells kept him warm, but it was Cro-Magnon Man that invented the first needle. It was also Cro-Magnon Man that fashioned the first sewn-together garments out of untanned leather and fur - the earth's climate was colder in 30,000BC - and he was also involved in creating the earliest incarnation of the hoodie.


The warmer climates saw the development of the loincloth - still worn today by some island and jungle tribes - and countries in different parts of the world began developing their very own male fashions. Egypt favored garments made out of linen, and Egyptian men - both nobles and commoners - walked around dressed in kilt-like loincloths. China, on the other hand, was extremely class-conscious, and members of the upper echelons of the Shang Dynasty (1600BC - 1000BC) made themselves at home in brightly colored long silk skirts, knee-length tunics and decorative sashes.

The Classics and The Chlamys: 800BC through AD400

Undergarments are usually hidden under layers of clothing, but these tiny items have a long and colorful history that should be exposed to the light of day. First developed to cover and protect certain obvious - and sensitive - parts of the body, underwear today is divided into the utilitarian, the protective and the racy.

Ancient History: When did we start wearing underwear?

Although pop culture insists on telling us the earliest known form of underwear was the fig-leaf, it's highly unlikely that leaves were ever considered lingerie and extremely likely that the earliest underclothes were made of wool, tanned leather, fur or linen. Most ancient cultures espoused the 'one size fits all' doctrine, and both men and women made use of long rectangular sheets of cloth to wind around and cover up their naughty bits, and in this way the loincloth and the breastcloth were born.
There is, however, considerable question about exactly when underwear came into use. Loincloths and breastcloths were, quite possibly, in use for centuries by themselves - especially in warmer climates - but, if they were just worn by themselves, then they could hardly be considered underwear. There is, for instance, firm evidence that men wore loincloths at least 5,200 years ago - and the loincloth that the frozen Otzi the Iceman was found deep in the Tyrolean Alps after lying in state for millennia most definitely constitutes firm evidence - and loincloths have also been found buried along with the mummies in the tombs of the 18th Dynasty Egyptian Pharaohs (1550BC through 1292BC).

Archeological evidence suggests that mollusk shells were strung together to make the first necklace approximately 85,000 years ago, and it wasn't long before pretty stones, bits of bone, carved wood and the like were being used for personal adornment. It was, however, quite a while before Cartier and De Beers rose to prominence although there is a remarkable similarity between some of today's styles and items that were fashionable 5,000 years ago.

Jewellery of the Ancients: Egypt, China, Mesopotamia and India

Jewellery is not a one-size-fits-all concept, and one of the most important ways in which each community could express its individuality was in the creation of functional and aesthetic trinkets. The handcrafting of personal ornamentation - which also sometimes served as currency - began in earnest around 3000BC, and given their excessive creativity, it's not surprising that the Egyptians were first in line to produce amulets and personal pretties. Gold was one of the Nile Valley dwellers' favorite materials to work with, and they also used faience beading and semi-precious lapis lazuli stones to produce their breathtakingly colorful collars, scarab brooches, armbands, pectorals and diadems.


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