Modern Lace: How the Old Fashioned Fave has Advanced with New Technologies

549 Valentino SS12

What does lace make you think of? I know it’s totally ‘in vogue’ right now, but pushing that aside, does it not make you think of Victorian nightdresses and old fashioned tablecloths? Lace has been around for centuries as one of the earliest forms of embellishment, and you will be well aware I’m sure of its recent resurgence. Catwalk lace looks for SS12 however, have reached new heights as designers push the boundaries ever more.

Lace is an openwork fabric made by machine or by hand. The holes that make it lace can be formed by removal of threads or cloth from a previously woven fabric, but more often open spaces are created as part of the lace fabric. Lace-making is an ancient craft. True lace was not made until the late 15th and early 16th centuries. Originally linensilk, gold, or silver threads were used but now lace is often made with cotton thread or synthetic fibres. 

Modern re-workings of lace dominated the catwalks this season. Dolce & Gabbana engineered guipure lace into a trim for a plastic mac and mixed it with appliqué for a homespun craft look, whilst Clements Ribeiro edged lace-patterned laser printed silk with black Chantilly lace. The look of lace was recreated in different forms, so at Yves Saint Laurent, a lace effect was stencilled onto python-embossed leather shoes and gold jewellery. At Valentino, dowry lace was evident in bright candy pink, and other designers really pushed the boat out with colour too.

Traditional white lace wasn’t neglected though, with Louis Vuitton, Chloe and Oscar de la Renta all opting for the virgin shade. From jumbo broderie anglaise, crochet looks and the sheerest silks, lace is definitely having a moment. Why not follow Vuitton’s lead and accessorise with a delicate lace parasol.